When you think of the renowned Impressionist artist Vincent Van Gogh, Arles instantly comes to mind. His stay in this charming town, though brief, was incredibly prolific. Between February 1888 and May 1889, Van Gogh dedicated himself to creating over 300 drawings and paintings, capturing the beauty of Arles and its surroundings with unmatched passion and intensity. The town’s streets and landscapes became his open-air studio, showcasing his unique ability to transform ordinary sights into extraordinary works of art.
The Van Gogh Pedestrian Path
Walking the Van Gogh Pedestrian Path is like stepping into the artist’s world. This journey takes you to a dozen locations where Van Gogh likely set up his easel to create his well-known paintings. At each stop, you’ll find informative signs that beautifully juxtapose his photos and works with the real-life streets and landscapes that inspired his masterpieces. However, navigating this path can be more challenging than expected, especially on your own. You’ll need a keen eye to find these spots, as they are scattered throughout Arles, and some are tucked away in less obvious corners.
Experiencing Van Gogh’s Presence
The presence of Van Gogh feels almost tangible in Arles. From the moment you arrive by train, his legacy greets you in delightful ways—like spotting a little Vincent santon in a shop window. These small clay figurines are part of Provence’s traditional crafts, celebrating the aspects of life in the region. They’ve become popular souvenirs, perfect for taking home a piece of this inspiring journey.
The Arles Tourism Office
When planning to explore the Van Gogh Path in Arles, your first stop might be the Tourism Office on Boulevard des Lices, where you’ll find an impressive display of posters featuring the artist in great abundance. However, don’t expect to find a single printed map of the Van Gogh Path here! Instead, a helpful staff member, fluent enough to work past my spotty French, pointed me to a QR code. This led to a link showcasing the various sites, including Van Gogh stops, mapped neatly on the Wivisites page.
The journey to understand Van Gogh better reveals him as one of the earliest artists to experiment with color beyond its representative role in real life. His work is rich with expression, capturing his feelings about the subject through quick, dynamic brush strokes.
These techniques brought an emotional depth to his scenes, sparking both admiration and raised eyebrows among deliberate artists of his time. His purposeful quickness beautifully captured fleeting moments, gestures, and light, embodying the Impressionist style. Witnessing his inspiring interpretations of ordinary scenes is a reminder of the brilliance in focusing on the simplest kinds of things.
Renowned artworks showcased along the Van Gogh Pedestrian Path in Arles
La Maison Jaune (The Yellow House)
In 1888, Vincent rented several rooms at number 2 Place Lamartine in Arles, where he set up his easel and created some of his famous works. Sadly, the original yellow house and the surrounding buildings associated with his painting were destroyed during WWII when Allied bombers missed their target, the nearby train station.
While the house no longer exists, you can still visit the location and enjoy the view from where Van Gogh painted. It is easy to recognize the location, which is just about 100 meters south of the Arles train station, making it a perfect starting point for a do-it-yourself walking tour of the area.
The Starry Night on the Rhône
The famous Starry Night painting was inspired by the view from the Quai du Rhône, a short walk from the Yellow House location. Though the Starry Night itself was painted in St Remy de Provence, this earlier companion piece offers a glimpse into Vincent's view of the east side of the Rhône river bank. The view from here is stunning, and you don't even need to walk to the exact location of the posted sign to recognize it. A nice walk along the river bank gives you a great chance to see small river cruise ships that dock nearby, adding a lively atmosphere to the scene.
Les Arenes
The Roman Amphitheater (also known as Les Arenes) is one of the biggest tourist sites in Arles and a dominating feature of the town. This site, made famous by Van Gogh, focuses on the crowd rather than the scene, a choice that sets it apart from many of his other works. In the painting, the spectators are watching a bullfight in the arena, which is still used for bullfighting today. Visitors can walk through the Amphitheater, exploring it just as Van Gogh would have, though the Van Gogh easel is no longer there.
Unlike the Colosseum in Rome, which it models after, you might find yourself walking around alone for a peaceful experience. From the higher tiers and towers, you can enjoy classic views of Arles, offering some of the most beautiful vistas in Provence. If you're in Arles, this is definitely one of the best things to do and a must-see for anyone interested in Roman ruins. For more info on visiting other sites and more things to see in the town, check out our blog post on Visiting Arles, France.
Le Café de Nuit (The Night Café)
The Le Café de Nuit painting by Van Gogh captures a powerful ambiance with its sultry, evening feel and dreaminess. The café was located at Place du Forum, a historically rich area in Arles that was the city's center. However, when I visited, Café Van Gogh was unfortunately closed and no longer in business, though I’m sure someone will eventually buy it and reopen it. The surrounding shops benefit from their famous neighbor, and it would be welcomed if the café were restored. Personally, I found it a bit disappointing during my visit in daylight hours, especially compared to the deep, heavy atmosphere I encountered in Le Café de Nuit at night while wandering the village of Eze. But that’s a different story!
Trinquetaille Bridge in Arles
When visiting Trinquetaille Bridge in Arles, you'll see where Van Gogh painted several views of the bridge, capturing its unique geometry. He concentrated on the stairway and the arch where the road goes beneath. This bridge, which spans the Rhône, has been there since Roman times, though the bridge Van Gogh painted was a relatively new bridge in Vincent’s day.
A notable detail from his 1888 painting is the sapling he portrayed at the base of the stairway, which has since grown into a mature plane tree. Visiting today, you’ll notice the same but different scene: the grown sapling stands tall, and there are weedy growths in the cracks of the stone steps. The busy energy of everyday life continues around the bridge, with people walking to work and going about their day. If you walk downstream, about 200 meters, you can catch a longer view of the bridge that Vincent also painted, adding to the charm of this iconic spot.
Le Jardin de l’Hôtel de Dieu
When Van Gogh was recovering from his nervous breakdown at the Hotel Dieu, he spent time in the interior gardens. It was here that he created some of his most famous paintings, finding peace in the serene surroundings.Today, this location is known as Espace Van Gogh, a former healthcare facility that now hosts a town library, exhibition spaces, souvenir shops, and a café. The gardens are carefully arranged to mirror Van Gogh’s painting, making it a tangible link to his time spent here. You can even visit the balcony where he observed and painted the garden during his convalescence. It’s a great spot to take a break, enjoy a cup of coffee, tea, or a snack, and soak in the peaceful atmosphere. During my visit, I had the chance to enjoy some tasty treats while sitting at a bistro table and watching the quiet Van Gogh themed walking tours pass by. It’s a perfect place to reflect on the artist's time in Arles and experience a bit of that everyday life he so often captured in his work.
Le Jardin d’Été
In Arles, the Boulevard des Lices offers a lovely public garden where Van Gogh painted several canvases capturing ordinary people strolling through the area. A sign marks the exact spot where Vincent stood to capture these scenes. Interestingly, the paintings led to arguments with a fellow artist about the speed of Van Gogh’s work. He famously defended himself, saying, “When someone says that such and such was done too quickly... they looked at it too quickly." The gardens continue to draw visitors, providing a peaceful setting to reflect on Van Gogh's quick and distinctive artistic style.
FAQs
What are the key sites to visit in Arles related to Van Gogh?
Some of the top sites to visit include La Maison Jaune, Le Café de Nuit, Trinquetaille Bridge, Le Jardin de l'Hôtel de Dieu, and Le Jardin d’Été. These places were directly influenced by Van Gogh’s works and provide a glimpse into the artist’s life and creations in Arles.
Is there a walking tour available to visit Van Gogh’s sites?
Yes, there is the Van Gogh Pedestrian Path, which takes you to several significant locations in Arles where Van Gogh created his famous paintings. You’ll find informative signs at each stop, providing insight into the artist’s process and his time in the town.
Can I visit Van Gogh’s original paintings?
While the original paintings are in various museums, Arles offers the chance to visit the locations that inspired these masterpieces. Sites like Les Arenes and the Boulevard des Lices still feature views similar to those seen in his work.
What is Espace Van Gogh?
Espace Van Gogh is the former Hotel Dieu hospital, where Van Gogh recovered after his nervous breakdown. Today, it houses a town library, exhibition spaces, souvenir shops, and a café. The gardens, which Van Gogh painted, have been arranged to reflect his artwork, providing a peaceful spot to relax and enjoy the surroundings.
Are there any challenges when walking the Van Gogh Path?
Yes, navigating the Van Gogh Pedestrian Path can be challenging. The stops are scattered throughout Arles, and some are in less obvious spots. It helps to have a map or use the QR code provided by the Arles Tourism Office for directions.
Is there a specific time of day to visit Le Café de Nuit?
Le Café de Nuit is known for its evening atmosphere, which Van Gogh beautifully captured in his famous painting. During the day, the café might not have the same ambiance, but visiting at night or wandering around Place du Forum can help you experience the heavy atmosphere he painted.
Conclusion
Visiting Vincent Van Gogh sites in Arles, France offers an incredible opportunity to walk in the footsteps of one of the most influential artists in history. Each location reflects a different aspect of his life, from the quiet gardens where he found peace to the bustling streets and cafés that inspired his famous works. Whether you're following the Van Gogh Pedestrian Path, admiring his views of Les Arenes, or relaxing at Espace Van Gogh, Arles brings the vibrant energy of Van Gogh’s art and legacy to life.